Whisky sitting

Hi! My name is Whisky. I’ve just moved into the neighbourhood. I used to live next to the Ram-Intra Expressway with my mother and six brothers and sisters, but the time came for me to leave home and move on. I’m 2½ months old, medium build, in good shape and weigh 5 kg. I’m laid back and easy going. I enjoy short walks in the garden and love gourmet dog food with a nice bowl of water. Then there’s nothing I like more after a hard day’s sniffing around the floor than curling up in bed with a good stuffed toy. My hobbies include sleeping, tearing up mats, sleeping, chasing balls, more tearing up mats, sleeping, planking and more sleeping. On offer: lots of scratches, nips and affection. Wanted: a better life for all dogs.

Whisky sleeping

[526]

Planking isn’t only a craze amongst Thai people, it’s also extremely popular with dogs. Whisky, my rescue dog (well, more of a puppy really) is a keen advocate. He’s actually pretty good at it now:

Whisky the planking dog

But his earlier efforts perhaps didn’t always quite hit the mark:

Whisky not planking

[524]

Planking (for those of you who’ve been living on a different planet for the past few weeks) is an Australian craze for lying flat in an usual position, then posting a photograph of yourself on the Internet. Planking has now spread globally, including to Thailand. However, one planker is now in hot water for doing so.

This monk is planking inside his kuti.

Planking Monk

The picture was posted on Twitter and has been widely criticised. The Network of Organisations for the Protection of the Nation, Religion and Monarchy has condemned the photograph, saying that it hurt Buddhism, and Phra Phrommolee (a senior monk of the Sangha Supreme Council) has urged senior monks to stop any other monk or novice from planking in the future.

[523]

When Prime Minister Abhisit called a general election the House was dissolved. That was on May 10th. It didn’t take long for the guns for hire to sprint into action. That same day a gunman sprayed the car of one candidate with bullets. The victim escape with minor injuries.

Police inspect the car
Police inspect the car. Photo from The Bangkok Post.

On the 13th a bomb was thrown into the car of a canvaser.

A week later a politician and his wife were shot dead whilst driving their pickup. That happened not far from where I used to live in Ayutthaya.

Even closer to home was a gun attack on the home of a canvaser in the district of Bangkok next to where I live on the 26th. Thankfully, there were no injuries. Equally fortunate was a politician who was subject to a similar attack two days later.

On the 29th a canvasser and a politician were both gunned down in a single incident.

On the 31st a bomb was thrown at a rally. Two injured – one seriously.

June 3rd brought another gun attack on a canvasser’s home. No injuries reported.

A canvasser was stabbed to death on the 12th. And on the same day there was yet another gun attack on a canvasser’s home. Again, no injuries.

In short, assassination and intimidation of politicians and canvassers is a key factor in Thai election campaigning. So, what are the police doing about this? Well, just after the House was dissolved they issued a list of 112 known hitmen and offered a substantial reward (equivalent to about £2,000) for anyone providing information leading to an arrest. “Most Wanted” posters, with photographs, were issued for 50 of the men.

But why haven’t the police been able to arrest these murderers? It seems that many of them are kept in training camps under the protection of powerful individuals – untouchable. The police actually know of 100 such camps, but any attempt to investigate is thwarted by those powerful individuals.

As F. Scott Fitzgerald allegedly said “The rich are different than you and me.” And it’s not just because they have more money. Here they’re beyond the law, too.

[522]

Step aside, Hitler; say goodbye, Gengis Khan; au revoir, Pol Pot. There’s a new contender for the most evil person on the planet: me.

Today I needed to go shopping. I put Whisky’s toys and basket in the downstairs shower room. I had to carry him there; enticement didn’t work – not even the special milky treats that the manufacturer claims are irresistable to dogs. No sooner had I shut the door than the whimpering began, shortly followed by loud crying. It reminded me of nothing so much as when my sister and mother went shopping a few years ago leaving a two year old nephew subject to my tender ministrations. The moment his mother was out of sight he started bawling, something he kept up for the full three hours. He also developed a magical ability to both wet and fill his nappies every few minutes. I suspect I hold the world record for frequency of changing stinky, sodden nappies. Looking after my nephew was heart-wrenching: there was nothing I could do to distract him or ease his pain. And today I felt the same way about Whisky. He was frightened, confused and alone – a bad place for any puppy to be.

He was still crying when I got home an hour later.

Of course, he survived the experience. I gave him his lunch. We played a little. And now he’s sleeping on the sofa. Life for him is good again.

[521]

Generally, dogs have a pretty miserable time in Thailand. All too often a family will buy a cute puppy and after a few months abandon it at the local temple (if it’s lucky) or on the street. Either the puppy has lost its cuteness, or it’s developed some sort of behavioural problem. Dog training isn’t the norm here. There’s no “sit” or “heel”. They do what they want. In Ayutthaya the family opposite had three dogs that would bark pretty well non-stop throughout the day, set off by anything that moved. The family, apparently, thought that was OK.

In Ayutthaya there are dozens of dogs by the railway station. People take them off the island, thinking that the dog won’t be able to find its way back home across the bridge. Many of these dogs are in an atrocious state – mangy, scabby and scarred, often with broken limbs. There are people who think nothing of beating them with wooden sticks or pouring hot oil over them. It’s heartbreaking. The dogs are rarely starving, though. Kind people put out food for them – I guess it’s a kind of merit-making. (I believe there’s a Thai tradition that naughty temple boys will be rebirthed as dogs.) The food is usually mostly rice. Not the best of diets for a dog, but it keeps them alive. It also keeps them docile; it tends to be the starving strays that are aggressive.

There’s nothing I can do to solve the problem of Thailand’s street dogs, but I can do something, and that starts today. Meet Whisky:

Whisky the dog

He was born a couple of months ago to one of Bangkok’s street dogs, one of a litter of seven. He was found, with the rest of the litter, living close to a busy expressway. From today he’s got a new home, living with me.

[520]

Fan

Today I went shopping for a fan. I walked away from Tesco-Lotus with what the manufacturer calls an “oscillation air circulator”. Call a spade a manually operated earth-moving implement, why don’t you?

[519]

Crispin & Crispianus pub signAs a teenager the bus to school would stop at traffic lights outside a pub called the Crispin & Crispianus. I remember thinking it a strange name, and wondering what it would be like to be called Crispy Anus? In fact, I’m not sure I’d particularly like to be called any moniker containing an “anus”. A group of Thai people have a slightly different problem with their “anus” name. But to begin at the beginning …

There is one word in Thailand that is so offensive that it’s rarely uttered. To call someone this is likely to provoke a brawl. That word is hia (เหี้ย). Here’s a hia:

Varanus salvator

It’s Varanus salvator, a Water Monitor. This magnificent lizard can grow up to 3½ metres in length and weigh up to 25 kg (though most adults are about half this). It has a sturdy, muscular body, strong claws and a hefty tail. Its body is gorgeously striped laterally giving it its more polite name in Thai, tua ngern tua thorng (ตัวเงินตัวทอง) which means silver-body gold-body. Unfortunately, its propensity for eating farmers’ chickens and eggs has given it a bad reputation. (It’s also occasionally referred to as tua gin gai (ตัวกินไก่) – chicken eater. It also poses another serious threat …

A few weeks ago such a lizard fell out of a tree in Lumpini Park – one of the few green areas in central Bangkok. Unfortunately, it landed on a woman who was slightly injured and needed a few stitches. In response the park officials rounded up all the lizards they could find (about 50 in all), put them in sacks and took them away. I somehow doubt they released them into a more suitable habitat – unless their natural habitat is swimming with the fishes. Of course, this was nothing to do with the perils of falling lizards in the park – though having a lizard fall on you is considered rather unlucky in these parts

Last year a senior official suggested that these beasts be rehabilitated by changing their name to Woranoot – a charming female name, and very close to the Thai pronunciation of Varanus. (Thai people pronounce “s” at the end of syllables as “t”.) And therein lies the rub: the lovely Voranoots of this world rather objected to being linked to hias. The proposal was quietly dropped.

***

The hia has been brought into political service in the run-up to the election by “The People’s Alliance for Democracy” (better known as the “yellow shirts” – the people who closed the airport and ruined the holidays of tens of thousands of tourists.) Don’t be fooled by the name – they’re not really in favour of democracy. In fact, they’re running a “vote no” campaign for the upcoming election. They put up this billboard in the centre of Bangkok.

PAD Animal Billboard

The strapline translates as “Don’t Let Animals Enter Parliament”. Notice our friend the hia there, along with the buffalo (a symbol of stupidity). Khwaay (ควาย) is a term commonly used by those euphemistically known as “bar girls” to refer to their western clients.

The tiger is considered particularly cruel. Thais say หน้าเนื้อใจเสือ, literally “nice face, heart of a tiger”.

There’s another quaint Thai idiom ผ่าตัด หมาออกจากปา which literally translates as “perform surgery to remove the dog from one’s mouth” and means to stop saying really stupid things, so the dog’s symbolic, too.

Finally, there’s the monkey. Not too sure what its exact significance is, but naughty children are refered to as ling (ลิง) as monkeys have a reputation for being mischevious.

The billboard has now been banned by the police as inappropriate.

***

Crispin and Crisipanus were two 3rd century English saints, both shoemakers, now the patron saints of bookmakers.

The pub is a grade II listed building, and was built in the early 17th century. Apparently Dickens was a regular here.

Crispin & Crispianus Pub

Earlier this year fire broke out, and the pub is now gutted and boarded up.

[518]

Former Prime Minister Thaksin gave an interview to an Australian TV channel from his luxury mansion in Dubai where he lives as a fugitive from justice. In the interview he denied that he wanted to become Prime Minister again, and that all he wanted was

“to be a lecturer … Playing golf. Giving guidance for my children — for their business endeavours.”

Well, that was enough to have me spluttering into my cocoa. How on earth does he expect the Thai people to believe this?

There’s a general election coming up in July. His party, Pheu Thai, has as its slogan

“Thaksin thinks; Pheu Thai does.”

In other words, Pheu Thai is Thaksin’s puppet.

Thaksin has appointed his sister, Yingluck Shinawatra, as the party’s number one candidate and putative next Prime Minister.

One of Pheu Thai’s main policies is an amnesty for Thaksin so he can return to Thailand without being jailed for his crimes.

Incidentally, his sister has no experience of politics whatsoever and has been banned by the party leaders from debating with the current Prime Minister Abhisit because … well, presumably because she’s not up to the job.

He’s stepping back to play golf? I should coco!

Then it dawned on me: very few Thai people will read the English language press – particularly the working class farmers and taxi drivers (both car and motorcycle) that provide the party’s core base of supporters. Thaksin, Janus-like, is trying to show one square face to the West – a hard-done-by politician overthrown by a coup, unfairly living in exile, who’s given up all political ambition – and another to Thailand as the same man he’s always been.

[517]

31. May 2011 · Write a comment · Categories: Food

Last weekend The Daily Telegraph published a clutch of so-called Thai recipes. Let’s look at one of them, by Rose Prince. The ingredients start OK with monkfish. Local Thai fish aren’t going to be readily available in the UK, so the substitution is fine. Lemongrass – that’s Thai. Then things start to go awry: pink peppercorns (never used in Thai cooking), parsley (never used). Rice vinegar – OK. Muscavado sugar – no! Half a washed, chopped anchovy!!! My Thai acquaintances universally loathe tinned anchovies. They’re sometimes called plaa raa farang. Plaa raa is a foul fermented fish that most westerners find virtually impossible to eat, and certainly impossible to enjoy. Thai people feel the same way about anchovies.

The recipe continues with lemon. Lemons are virtually unobtainable in Thailand – there isn’t even a Thai word for them. Thai cooking only uses limes – never lemons.

The recipe plunges into further depths of absurdity in calling for “white radicchio castelfranco”. Needless to say, this is not a staple of Thai cuisine.

I’m not saying that this dish isn’t delicious. In fact, I respect Rose Prince as a food writer, so if you’re tempted to try it the recipe’s at http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/foodanddrinknews/8541808/Coconut-milk-shortage-top-Thai-recipes-without-coconut-milk.html. But why, oh why, oh why is it necessary to call this “[one of] our top Thai recipes”?

[516]